Editor’s note: This article is from 2017. As I understand it, tourism in Phu Quoc has really taken off since then! Therefore, this article may no longer capture an accurate depiction of the island. Be sure to do your research!
As I write this, I wonder how I can put into words how incredible Phu Quoc is!
Phu Quoc is a Vietnamese island off the coast of Cambodia in the Gulf of Thailand. It has everything from white sand beaches to dense tropical jungles. I can’t accurately describe the feeling of being on this island — the undeveloped natural beauty and the experience as whole. I’m confident we picked the best location for the majority of our honeymoon in Vietnam!
Getting there & accommodations
After 2 Days in Ho Chi Minh City and 3 Days in Hoi An, we were ready for beachside relaxation. We booked our stay in a seaside bungalow at Thanh Kieu Beach Resort. I recommend this location to anybody wanting to feel like you are spending the big bucks without actually doing so!
We took a short and inexpensive flight from Da Nang which arrived just in time for us to get settled in and enjoy our first sunset in Phu Quoc.
Long Beach
We enjoyed dinner and drinks at our resort’s beachfront bar and went for a walk along Long Beach to scope out our new surroundings.
Long Beach is the place to stay in Phu Quoc! The beach is lined with resorts, restaurants and bars. We passed some delicious fresh seafood displays at Lien Hiep Thanh and promised the staff we would return the following day for dinner.
We found a spot to chill at Rory’s Beach Bar and instantly fell in love with the vibe. Owned by an Australian man and his wife, this spot is the go-to bar for tourists and Westerners in Phu Quoc. The staff were friendly, the music was great and the drinks were delicious! Over the course of our six-day stay in Phu Quoc, we came to Rory’s for lunch, dinner or drinks at least six or seven times. We loved ending each night here, especially since it was only a five-minute walk on the beach back to our hotel.
Note: As of September 2018, Rory’s Bar is now located on the east side of Phu Quoc. Check their Facebook page for more information.
Motorbike adventure
On our second day in Phu Quoc, we rented a motorbike from the front desk for $8. We explored the north side of the island to include Ganh Dau cape, where you can see Cambodia in the distance, and Bai Thom island, which is connected to shore by a tiny bridge made of tree branches.
Phu Quoc is big! It took us about an hour to reach these northern destinations. Riding the motorbike was quite the adventure. We would not have dared to do it in HCMC or Hoi An, because traffic flow is absolutely nuts. Phu Quoc is much more laid back, though still an adventure as only certain roads are paved. I was hot and uncomfortable sitting on the back the whole time, but we had to do it for the experience! When in Vietnam, right?
Lien Hiep Thanh
That evening, as promised, we returned to the fresh seafood display we had seen the night before at a lovely restaurant called Lien Hiep Thanh. We chose which pieces we wanted from a boat full of fresh seafood and they grilled them to our preference on the spot.
We dined right next to the water with our toes in the sand. It was in this moment that Phu Quoc stole my heart.
An Thoi Islands
On our third day in Phu Quoc, we rode our motorbike to An Thoi harbor where we joined another couple to split the cost of a private boat tour to the An Thoi islands.
This was a bit more overwhelming than we thought it would be! We were approached by several people trying to rip us off, but we had an idea of how much it should cost after researching online. Eventually we found a fisherman who offered to take us for 400,000 vnd each (approx. $17), so we went for it.
Our guide spent the day bringing us to three of the An Thoi islands, including stops for fishing and snorkeling. He didn’t speak English, so there were some lost in translation moments, but it was such a fun experience. The An Thoi islands are stunning!
The locals on one of the islands prepared lunch for us — which at first seemed a bit unsettling because they prepared the food in a small hut with no running water or electricity and trash everywhere, but it tasted great and we didn’t get sick.
Dinh Cau Night Market
After our lovely boat tour, we rode back to the resort to freshen up, then called a taxi to bring us to the Dinh Cau Night Market (only a five-minute drive from the resort).
The Night Market is awesome! Live seafood on display for several blocks, including all types of fish, squid, octopus, lobster, crab, even shark. You pick from the tank exactly which one you want them to grill for you. I couldn’t handle that part, so I told Ben what I wanted to eat and then took a seat in the dining area!
Not to be missed at the Night Market is the Thailand Ice Cream Rolls! These are super delicious — you choose your flavor and mix-ins from a large variety of delicious fruits and sweets, and watch it be prepared in front of you. Think Coldstone, but better!
We ate seafood, washed it down with a fresh ginger beer, satisfied our sweet tooth with the ice cream rolls and brought home a carton of the amazingly flavored Phu Quoc peanuts.
Beach relaxation
Our fourth day in Phu Quoc was all about relaxation!
We claimed lounge chairs at the beach, enjoyed lunch and drinks from the beach restaurant, swam in the warm water, took naps in the gorgeous weather and enjoyed our surroundings. We stayed in the shade as much as possible because we both had major sunburns from the six-hour boat tour the day before.
I was really happy with Long Beach because the vendors weren’t bad at all. Every now and then, a sweet lady would approach us to ask if we wanted some fresh coconut or mango. If we said no, she kindly said good-bye and moved on. Do her a favor and buy some fruit; you will not regret it!
Day turned to night, and we enjoyed a front-row view of the sunset before heading over to Rory’s once again for dinner and drinks.
Sao Beach
Our fifth day in Phu Quoc was a busy one! We visited Sao Beach (supposedly the most beautiful beach on Phu Quoc), the Coconut Prison and the Suoi Tranh Waterfall.
I was tired of riding the motorbike around in the blazing sun, so we asked the front desk to hire us a driver for the day for $50. That’s expensive for Vietnam, but it was worth it for us to have someone take us wherever we requested in an air-conditioned vehicle.
Our first stop was Sao Beach, where we stayed for about three hours. This beach has mixed reviews, and I understand why. It’s a breathtaking location — white sand, clear water, palm trees and a sandbar that extends far into the water — however, trash is a big issue.
In many areas of the beach, garbage covers the sand. We walked down the beach until we reached Paradiso Restaurant, which had clean sand due to a staff member constantly picking up any trash coming to shore. We rented lounge chairs for a couple dollars and enjoyed lunch and drinks — good menu here!
After lunch, we spent some time in the absolutely stunning and clear water!
Coconut Prison
Next we visited Coconut Prison, which served as a place for prisoners of war during the Vietnam War, or the American War as they call it.
Similar to the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City, it is slanted with a lot of anti-American/pro-North propaganda. It is awful to see and read about the atrocities committed at the prison. It paints a negative picture for Americans and the Southern Vietnam forces, who are referred to as the American Puppet Administration throughout the exhibit.
Several non-American visitors wanted to take our photos at the prison, which was tremendously awkward. We did not stay very long because the hot sun was unbearable. I still enjoyed visiting this attraction, though — very eye-opening.
Suoi Tranh Waterfall
After Coconut Prison, we went to Suoi Tranh Waterfall. This waterfall is probably lovely in the wet season; however, it is almost totally dry during the dry season.
We enjoyed a shaded 20-minute walk to the waterfall, full of bizarre fake animals scattered throughout the trees — giraffes, bears, lions, tigers and monkeys. When we reached the waterfall, it was a mere trickle. It was okay though — it was a nice walk, good exercise and an escape from the hot sun!
Dinh Cau Temple
We finished our short waterfall hike by 5 p.m., just in time to catch the sunset! We made our way over to Dinh Cau Temple, which was a beautiful setting for the sunset. This temple and lighthouse situated at the edge of the harbor provides a lovely view over the water.
After the sunset, we went back to the resort to freshen up, then out again for another round of the Night Market.
Viet-dogs
We enjoyed all of the cute Night Market dogs. They roam the restaurants and come up to your table looking for scraps, but they do not beg or care to be pet. They are very friendly, though.
While on the topic of dogs, I must include a tidbit about the two little rascals we really fell for in Phu Quoc. This dynamic duo, who we nicknamed “The Troublemakers,” were a big part of our stay. We met them on the beach during our first night in Phu Quoc and continued to run into them day after day in various locations up and down Long Beach.
One day, they joined us for breakfast at Thanh Kieu. We spent time petting them and loving on them, and they were so incredibly sweet. We became incredibly attached to these two, and miss them horribly when we look back at these photos. Hope you are doing well and continuing your shenanigans, little troublemakers!
Sadly, our sixth day was our final full-day in Phu Quoc. We spent it on the beach, at Rory’s for lunch, at our favorite restaurant Lien Hiep Thanh for dinner and back to Rory’s for post-dinner drinks. We also enjoyed some jet-skiing a bit further down the beach.
Our final night in Phu Quoc was heartbreaking. I truly fell in love with this place.
Conclusion
I highly recommend Thanh Kieu Beach Resort to anyone who visits Phu Quoc. The location is stunning, the price is fair and the staff are so friendly. There is also a market within a five-minute walk up the road that provides all of your essentials — sunscreen, aloe, alcohol, postcards and snacks.
Also, the beach was clean! Garbage is a major issue in Vietnam. The most beautiful locations are full of trash, which is so disappointing. For the first five days of our stay, the beach in front of Thanh Kieu was spotless. Unfortunately, on the sixth day, we had a lot of wind overnight and the waves brought in a ton of trash.
If you want a relaxing beach vacation at a fraction of the cost compared to other destinations, come to Phu Quoc. Come before the tourists discover it! Though we did see some other Westerners on the island, it is very much untouched by tourism compared to other locations.
Set fair expectations coming to this island. The locals have a different standard of living than we are privileged to enjoy. You will see neighborhoods comprised of huts with no running water or electricity; come across stray dogs every day; run into a language barrier; and encounter things you are not used to — litter, trash in the ocean, not being able to flush toilet paper, restrooms being pretty unpleasant in general, etc.
Phu Quoc, and Vietnam as a whole, is still developing. The natural beauty is unparalleled, and you will have the time of your life if you come with an open mind. I know we did. I left a piece of my heart in Phu Quoc, and I cannot wait to return.
